The Desert

I wake up early, hours before breakfast. I grab my sleeping bag and makeshift pillow and toss them into the tent. The sun is about to peek over the mountains as I walk from the camp to the outskirts of the Bedouin village. I find an open space and sit down on a rock, facing east. I wait patiently for a few minutes before the sky ignites in yellow and orange. I watch as the sun climbs over the mountains illuminating the desert.

When the sky turns fully blue I head back to camp. I watch as the Bedouins guide the camels around, readying them for another day of tourists. They release the donkeys into the camp and they stampede around the stable and past our tents. I get some breakfast, heavy on the Bedouin tea, and sit near the stables as, one by one, my companions groggily emerge from the tent.

When everyone's up and had their fill of breakfast we board the bus. I stare longingly back at the camp until it's out of sight before closing my eyes and falling asleep.

When I awaken a lone red hill stands before us, isolated from the mountains behind us. From the base, squinting through the sunlight, I catch a glimpse of Masada, site of the mass Jewish suicide to avoid capture by the Romans. We start our ascent and I dart up the mountin in ten minutes flat. I towards the sun and gaze east. In the distance I glimpse the Dead Sea and imagine Herod staring the same way over 2000 years ago.

I rejoin the rest of the group and we tour the ruins, learning of the symbolism the fortress has in Israeli culture. I talk to the soldiers about being sworn in at the peak and they all describe the obligation they felt here to defend Israel. We descend the snake path, one hour down in desert heat.

After a quick rehydration break we drive to the Dead Sea. I imagine how refreshing a dip in cool water will be after our sweaty morning. I'm one of the first in the water. I immediately feel a sharp pain in my heel. The blister I'd developed hiking is feeling the theraputic powers of the mineral-rich water. I wonder what other cuts I'll discover as I wade in up to my waist. The water is warm and slimy, not what I expected. Nevertheless, I take the plunge and sit down. It's like nothing I'd ever experienced before. You can't help but float, and it takes effort to move your legs. Eyes closed it's impossible to tell you're in water.

I get out, rinse off and head to the mud pit. We all coat ourselves in slime and let ourselves cook in the sun. Thoroughly exfoliated, we run back into the slimy water. My cuts don't hurt nearly as much now, I guess this stuff really works. A quick dip in the pool and it's back on the bus.

Our last stop is quick. We walk through Ein Gedi until we reach three magnificent waterfalls. Finally a real chance to cool off. Everybody goes exploring or is still slowly changing as I throw my head under the first waterfall I can reach. The cool blast of water pouring from I head is euphoric, and I hold myself there for what feels like an hour. I wander down some rocks and find a small crevice where I rest and let four tiny rivulets pour down on me from overhead. I close my eyes and let time slip away until I hear the call to go.

We talk and sing on the bus until Eilam calls for silence. He starts a countdown as we enter a tunnel and I'm excited for what awaits us at one. The countdown ends and we emerge into the sunlight. On my left I see the what looks like the whole city of Jerusalem. I'm too excited nd too tired to think of searching for the holy sites and I just take in what parts I see.

My long day has exhausted me and with the help of some arak I sleep through the night.

Hebrew word of the day, salt: מלח (me-lach)